Today was a big milestone on our journey: a seventy-five-mile trek where we began trading the old stone structures of the C&O Canal Trail for the mountain views of the GAP Trail. Instead of tracking the slow-moving barge canal, our route shifted to follow the historic Western Maryland Railway as we pushed westward.
With rain clouds gathering in the forecast, we pedaled out early, praying to stay dry. Ultimately, today was all about the tunnels. The crown jewel was the famous Paw Paw Tunnel, an incredible feat of engineering that channels the C&O canal through more than 3,000 feet of solid rock. Because of the notoriously uneven boardwalk, we had to dismount and hoof it on foot. Even with our headlights cutting through the damp darkness, the "light at the end of the tunnel" was nothing more than a tiny speck when we started.
To manage our gear, we've been playing leapfrog with an SUV loaded with our luggage and lunch supplies. After exiting Paw Paw, I volunteered to take a shift behind the wheel and drove the support vehicle to our lunch rendezvous 17 miles down the trail.
Post-lunch, the riders faced another train tunnel. Thankfully, this one featured a much smoother surface and plenty of light, meaning we could stay in the saddle and cruise right through.
The final 15-mile stretch test our legs with a relentless but gentle grade of a few percent. By the time we reached Frostburg, the trail saved the best for last: one final, brutally steep climb up into town before we finally rolled up to our cozy B&B.
Brian


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